Getty Villa: Roman for a Day, LA-style

Perched above the winding Pacific Coast Highway in Malibu, the Romanesque Getty Villa contrasts with its modern, Brentwood counterpart The Getty Center.



The Villa’s complex of gardens and galleries is modeled on the Villa dei Papiri – a 1st century Roman country house. Even the main drive up to the Villa is a replica of ancient Roman roads that were paved with large irregular stones. I didn’t appreciate the road’s authenticity during my visit since my car is in need of new shocks. But in theory, I applaud the attention to detail.

A pet project of oil magnate J. Paul Getty, the Villa was first built in 1945 on its present 64-acre site. Ironically, Getty never visited the re-created Roman palace he bankrolled, but that doesn’t mean we can’t enjoy it.



Reopened to the public just over a year ago after being closed for an extensive 9-year remodel, the Villa is in such high demand that advanced reservations are a must. You can make them online, but getting tickets for a weekend requires planning ahead.

While the Villa’s renowned collection of classical Greco-Roman art is a major draw, the scent of scandal surrounding the Getty has also piqued public interest. Former Getty curator Marion True is on trial in Italy, charged with knowingly buying looted antiquities. And this isn’t the first time the Getty has been accused of shady dealings.

Despite needing reservations, there were still packs of camera-toting tourists (yes, I was one of them!) arriving by the carload. After parking in a modern-looking structure that didn’t really fit with the rest of the experience, we were met by uber-friendly staff that thrust brochures at us before we even hit the elevator to the main level.



To get the full effect of the complex, architects have you take an elevator up, walk along a short path with views overlooking the villa, and then descend down steps through the outdoor ampitheater to the main entrance.

Non-conformist that I am, I generally try to clear of large tour groups. My last experience, at the Smithsonian in DC, involved a man (my friend and I dubbed him ‘the vacation nazi’) who talked over the guide in his quest to prove his superior knowledge of modernist painting.

Despite this misadventure, my friend and I decided to try out one of the Villa tours. Foodies that we are, we signed up for the Taste of the Ancient World tour. The hour-long circuit details the good, the bad, and the quirky of ancient Greek and Roman dining customs.

Thankfully, there were no vacation nazis in our group. Entranced by the guide’s steady stream of wacky facts and quirky anecdotes, I was so focused on the pieces I didn’t check my watch once.

The wine cups the Greeks used look more like huge platters – some more than a foot in diameter. And these ‘cups’ frequently had silly images at the bottom, like a face with a tongue sticking out, to remind them not to drink too much. (I guess some things, like a hangover, never change.) Nevertheless, it was apparently harder to get a buzz in those days. The Greeks drank diluted wine. Typically, one part wine was mixed with three parts water.

Meanwhile, the Greeks and Romans usually dined reclining. Eating at a table was considered ‘barbaric’. And with Tums not around then, indigestion must have been par for the course.

And for the last piece of trivia to astound (weird out) your friends…
How do you feel about flamengo and peacocks? Rare or medium-well? Apparently, these feathered friends were standard fare in the Roman diet.

If food isn’t your thing, there’s an Architecture and Gardens Tour as well as a Collection Highlights Tour.

If storing all this Roman and Greek trivia gets you hungry, there’s a lovely indoor/outdoor café where you can munch on Mediterranean fare.



Before you leave, be sure to check out the Villa’s Outer Peristyle. Located behind the galleries, you will find formal gardens decorated with bronzed sculptures set around a palatial pool.



There’s also a great view of the ocean on your way to the parking lot so you might want to keep your camera out to catch it.

The Getty Villa
17985 Pacific Coast Highway
Pacific Palisades, California 90272

Admission: Free
Parking: $8
Open Thursday through Monday: 10am to 5pm