Hidden Hollywood: Hightower and Whitley Heights

Nobody walks in LA, according to those famously catchy lyrics, but the neighborhoods of Hollywood Heights make it worthwhile to strap on those walking shoes and defy the stereotype.



Hollywood is probably not the first neighborhood that springs to mind when you think of places for a relaxing walk. But in the hills, just a few blocks away from the tourist madness at Hollywood/Highland, lie the quiet retreats of Hightower and Whitley Heights.



These residential neighborhoods boast winding streets, concealed staircases, historic homes, and charming bungalows. Bonus: All the uphill makes for a great butt workout.



The Hollywood Heritage Museum (2100 North Highland Ave). is the best place to start. The parking lot here is free, and the tiny museum is worth a stop in and of itself. Housed in the restored Lasky-DeMille Barn (c.1895), the museum features historic photos, props, and other mementos from Hollywood’s movie heyday.

At the corner of Camrose and Highland, there's a walled park that's open to the public with a shady picnic area, perfect for a lunch stop

Hightower

Once you cross Highland Ave. and head up Camrose Drive, you’re officially in the Hightower neighborhood. Beyond its secluded feel and its charming homes, this neighborhood has a special secret.



You may notice the collection of stand-alone garages bunched together, without houses attached, at the bottom of hills. That’s because many people in this neighborhood can only reach their homes via footpath (pedestrian-only) or elevator. That’s right, elevator!



Only residents have keys to use the private High Tower elevator, but it’s definitely worth a look. To reach it, head up Camrose and turn right on High Tower Road, where you will see the street’s namesake looming above.



To get a closer view of the tower, turn left from High Tower Road onto the Los Altos Place pedestrian footpath – a pleasantly shaded walkway. Then turn right on Broadview Terrace, another pedestrian path, and head up the stairs. At the top, you will be treated to an up-close look at the top of the elevator, as well as fabulous views of the downtown skyline.


Whitley Heights

With more of a prosperous, old Hollywood feel than Hightower, Whitley Heights boasts stunning Mediterranean-style homes, many dating from the 1920s, when stars like Judy Garland and Charlie Chaplin called this home. To me, Whitley Heights feels more neighborly and less secluded than Hightower.



To reach this neighborhood, it’s best to go back to the starting point at the Hollywood Heritage Museum. From here, head up Milner Road and wind your way up the hill. Alternatively, ascend the hill via the Whitley Terrace Steps next to 6776 Milner.



Please note that my inspiration for this walk came thanks to Walking LA
– a fabulous book of LaLaLand walking tours by Erin Mahoney – that I recommend to anyone looking for off(and some on)-the-beaten-path adventures. (Note: She gives much more detailed walking directions than I do with maps and the works)

James Nachtwey's Wish - See It Live In LA

So who's James Nachtwey, what's he wishing for, and why would you want to be involved?

Who:
Nachtwey is a renowned war photographer, who specializes in capturing people doing their best to go about their everyday lives in conflict zones.

From his photos of the 1981 hunger strike in Northern Ireland to the civil war in El Salvador, his work makes you think. Don't be surprised if you find yourself teary-eyed, smiling, or both.

Wish:
"I have been a witness, and these pictures are my testimony. The events I have recorded should not be forgotten and must not be repeated."

Nachtwey has been working with the TED organization over the last 18 months to gain access to locations he wished to photograph. These pictures will be unveiled all over the world in early October.

Why:
As far as Nachtwey's work goes, a picture is worth far more than a thousand words. To hear about the background to this project straight from Nachtwey himself and see examples of his work, click here.

Where:
Luckily for us, LA has been picked as one of the five U.S. locations where Nachtwey's work will be shown. See the list below for a location near you.

Sat, October 4, 2208
The 6th Annual LA Decompression Music & Arts Festival
Noon to Midnight
Los Angeles State Historical Park
1245 N. Spring Street,
Los Angeles, CA 90012

Sun, October 5, 2008
Elevate Film Festival
Nokia Theater at LA Live Dowtnwon Los Angeles
2pm-8pm

Thurs, October 9, 2008
Downtown Art Walk
Projection on wall at 6th and Main St.
Info booth inside gallery of Photography show at Phantom Galleries LA Gallery and at the Pacific Electric Lofts 610 Main St.

Fri, October 10, 2008
Pasadena Art Night
Projection in the window of 82 North Fair Oaks during Art Night Festivities. Information at the Phantom Galleries LA Gallery exhibit Dave Lovejoy - Circular Logic at The Majestical Roof Gallery
88 North Fair Oaks, Suite 102, Pasadena, California 91103
7pm-11pm

Sat, October 11, 2008
NELA Art Walk
Screening Slide show during the Art Walk on a montitor on a DVD player at Future Studio
7pm-9pm

LA’s Fashion District: This Ain’t Rodeo Drive

The frenzied streets of LA’s Fashion District seem worlds away from Beverly Hills’ manicured poshness three miles to the west. Reminiscent of a cross-border shopping trip to Mexico, LA’s fashion district is a mecca for in-the-know Angelenos looking for bargains.



Pretty it ain’t…in fact, if you have an aversion to crowds, Mexican-style mercados, or loud noises, be forewarned - this is not the place for you. The draw for me is seeing an actual sidewalk in LA overflowing with people, not to mention knock-offs galore.



Sidewalk vendors cook up hot dogs wrapped in bacon (aka heart attack in a bun) under questionable hygienic circumstances. But it’s easy to overlook when you catch a whiff of the delicious greasiness. Bells from popsicle carts jingle, hawkers shout ‘5 doh-lers, cinco dolares’, and blasting ranchera and techno music energizes and deafens at the same time. All in all, it seems like a real downtown - more of the third world-variety, but a downtown filled with people nevertheless.



Santee Alley – a heavily-congested alley that would make claustrophobes run for cover - is ground zero of the Fashion District. Located between Maple and Santee streets on the stretch between Olympic and Pico Blvds, Santee Alley is notorious for all sorts of bootleg items. You’ll find ‘designer’ handbags, pirated DVDs, let-it-all-hang-out dresses, noisy toys, and assorted ghetto bling. If you’re looking for fabric, bead, rug, and flower stores, they are concentrated north of the alley around 8th and 9th.

Tips:
• Bargaining's almost a requirement, or the chotchkie-pushers will think you’re a pushover
• Most places don’t have dressing rooms
• Bring cash because these shops don’t accept American Express (or Mastercard or Visa for that matter)
• Parking is plentiful. Just bring a couple bucks – lots run about $3 to $6 for the day, depending on when you go

Sweet Libertine: Breath Of Fresh Air On The Sunset Strip

Amid the ADD-inducing lights and glitz of the Sunset Strip lies the nondescript lounge Libertine. You won’t find lines of the barely legal, let-it-all-hang-out crowd here. That’s because one, they’re all at Dublin’s or Miyagis down the street and two, there are no lines at Libertine. This is a place that realizes making people wait in lines is not cool.



In fact, Libertine is still a well-kept secret. From the outside, it looks like a historic old house (Charlie Chaplin lived here in the 1920s) and it’s so non-descript there's no sign out front, which can make it a bit challenging to find. But it’s worth the effort.



The best way to spot the place is to look out for Pinche’s Tacos – the cheerily decorated, lip smackingly-good taco place next to Libertine. Open late, Pinche’s provides the perfect 2am snack. In fact, the food’s so darn good (granted, I had a couple of drinks in me at the time) that you might yell ‘Pinche tacos’ when you realize those three tacos you just scarfed are not calorie-free.



Unlike a cavernous club or a cramped dive bar, Libertine is more like a classy house party, with plenty of room to lounge on the couches or bust a move on the small dance floor.



It’s sparsely decorated, except for the occasional flat screen TV adorning the wall. And if you want some air, the cheery back patio is relatively roomy, lit up with lights, and even has a few chairs and tables.



Like most places, the music differs by night. Check the site for details. The Friday we were there was ‘House of Groove’ night, and the drummer accompanying the DJ made the whole set seem like live music. Did I mention Libertine boasts a stripper pole? It doesn’t quite fit in with the rest of the place…but then again, Libertine doesn’t quite fit in with the rest of the Sunset Strip.

Libertine on Sunset
8210 W. Sunset Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90046
(across from Chateau Marmont)
323-656-3005

Getty Center: Fridays Off The 405

Once a month the Getty Center plays host to an LA-tastic evening event. Not only are the regular galleries and exhibits open, there’s also dancing, drinking, and awesome DJs spinning.



In true LA style, the event pays ode to the gnarly traffic gridlock Angelenos deal with on a daily basis and bills itself ‘Fridays Off The 405’, meaning the attendees are enjoying themselves at the Getty instead of being stuck on the 405 freeway below.



Set atop a steep hillside, the Getty Center offers wedding proposal-inspiring views of the Pacific Ocean and Westside, particularly at sunset when a rose-and-orange- colored glow illuminates the darkening sky.



A futuristic white tram zips you up the hill from the parking area to the modernist Getty complex. This ain’t your typical LA museum. Designed by Richard Meier, the other-worldly buildings - made from 16,000 tons of light-reflecting, beige-colored travertine stone brought from Italy – are reason enough to come.



Organized around a central arrival courtyard, the Getty has unusual indoor/outdoor space that could only work in LA’s year-round sunny climate. The curving buildings are interspersed with jetting fountains, light-filled terraces, and creative gardens. A visit is almost like being transported to some idyllic Star Trek planet.



The LA-ness of the whole thing really comes through in people's dress styles. Quite simply, anything goes - artsy fartsy vintage, business casual, beach dresses with flip-flops. I even spotted a couple clad in 100% spandex and running shoes. So don't worry about any kind of dress code here.

The event goes from 6p to 9p, but no need to be fashionably late. The cost of parking is $8 per car (although the event is technically free) so carpool and pack in as many as you can to save money. The reason to arrive on the early side doesn’t become clear till it’s time to leave. Basically, it’s a case of ‘last one in, last one out’ and being last could mean you’re stuck in the underground parking for two hours.

Don't miss the next Friday Off The 405 on June 27, 2008 featuring DJ King Shade.

Harboring A Crush On Newport Beach

Known for its overwhelmingly large number of well-heeled, white Republicans and infamous as the home of the Cohen family on that TV classic - The OC, Newport Beach has a definite rep. But even if you're not a Republican or an OC fan (I'm neither!), this laid-back beach town still makes a great day-trip.



Life revolves around the water in Newport Beach, 50 miles south of LA. On sunny days, beach-goers fan out across the golden sand to soak up rays and swim in the aquamarine water. Boogie boarders and body surfers glide along the rolling waves. The beach here may evoke picturesque Baywatch scenes, but it’s not so different from Huntington to the north or Laguna to the south.



What really makes Newport special is its 4-mile harbor filled with seven man-made islands and over 9,000 vessels, from rowboats to luxury yachts.



Lining the harbor is the historic Balboa Fun Zone. Built in 1936, the Fun Zone lives up to its name with a small ferris wheel, merry-go-round, and an arcade. Sailboats or kayaks can be rented here if you want to take a spin around the harbor.



Across from the Fun Zone is Balboa Island – the biggest of the seven small islands and a Newport must-see. An auto ferry floats pedestrians and up to three cars across the harbor for $1 a pop per pedestrian.



To enjoy this mile-long slice of Americana, take a stroll around Balboa island. The cottage-like houses boast small, carefully-tended gardens. Boat slips line the shoreline. In between these slips, families take advantage of small beach plots to sunbathe, while their kids play in the calm harbor water. A glimpse down the narrow streets shows most houses flying a U.S. or USC flag or both.



Balboa island may seem as unassuming as Mayberry, but this is some of the most expensive real estate outside Manhattan. Besides the golf carts and bikes residents use to get around, there are plenty of pricier rides. Newport is said to have the highest per-capita number of Mercedes-Benzes in the world.



Like a 50s flashback, Marine Ave - the island's main drag - seems like it hasn't changed much over the years. Dad’s and Sugar n’ Spice, a couple doors down from each other, continue their decades-long battle over who rightly lays claim to the original Balboa Bar – a vanilla ice cream bar coated in chocolate and the topping of your choice. So for fairness sake, that means you need to give both a try. Save room for Balboa Candy, also on Marine, which specializes in old-time candies and offers barrels of saltwater taffy in every imaginable flavor.

As for parking, all I can say is good luck. Your best bet is trying to snag a spot in the lot by the Balboa Pier, which is within easy walking distance of the Fun Zone and the auto ferry to Balboa Island.

Directions:
- From the 405 freeway, take Hwy 55
- Hwy 55 will cross Pacific Coast Hwy and change names to Balboa Blvd
- Turn right onto Main St. to the Balboa Beach parking lots

Main Street Ventura: City of Good Fortune

Promoted as the ‘City of Good Fortune,’ Ventura is aptly named. This small seaside town, with its backdrop of rolling hills, enjoys sunny days (an average of 258 a year to be exact) and gorgeous surfing beaches. What really sets Ventura apart, though, is its vibrant Main Street - a rarity in SoCal where mall culture has sucked the life out of most small city downtowns.



Just a one-hour drive north of LA, Ventura is typically used as a takeoff point for the nearby Channel Islands or bypassed altogether en route to Santa Barbara – its swankier neighbor to the north. But this small city is definitely stop-worthy.



Where else could you find a tapas bar serving Kobe beef burgers a couple doors down from a thrift store with a window display of neon-colored umbrellas? Like surrounding cities, Ventura has its fair share of cookie-cutter chain stores. But on palm tree-lined Main Street, these are a rare breed. Everyone from thrift store mavens to hip trendsetters should feel at home here.



Anchored by the San Buenaventura Mission to the west, the area offers thrift shops, trendy boutiques, jewelry stores, upscale wine bars, a taqueria, a cookbook store, a 50s style diner, and a funky coffee shop all in eight blocks. And for architectural buffs, don’t miss the beaux-arts style City Hall. Built in 1912, this historical landmark overlooks the city from Poli St., a block up from Main.

Here are a few highlights:



San Buenaventura Mission
211 East Main Street

Get an up close view of California’s mission history at founder Father Junipero Serra’s reputed favorite. The donation for a self-guided tour of this mission, founded in 1782, runs $1 for adults and 50¢ for children.

Coalition Thrift Store
270 East Main Street

A treasure trove of games, clothes, appliances, and other bits and bobs. This is my favorite thrift store of the three in the area. And besides the great prices, you get the benefit of knowing the money from your purchases is going to a good cause.

Palermo Coffee
321 East Main Street

More than just a coffee shop, this anti-Starbucks also sells chocolates and gelato (try the honey lavender!). Enjoy your treats on the patio or inside amid the charming clutter of gifts for sale (teapots, clocks, dried flowers, etc.) Adding to Palermo’s character is the high ceiling and exposed brick wall.



Busy Bee Café
478 East Main Street

Playful red-and-white décor and boothside jukeboxes draw patrons into this 50s-themed diner. Waitresses in bobby sox and cheerleader outfits complement the ambiance. A white board out front advertises daily specials, like fried chicken and pot pie. The burger-and-milkshake fare may not outdo In-N-Out’s, but the décor sure does.

The Calico Cat Bookshop
495 East Main Street

Established in 1975, this bookshop buys and sells used and rare books. Its random collection – from cookbooks to local history – will keep bookworms busy for hours.

Please let me know if there are any additional highlights that should be added.

Directions:

- Take the 101 Freeway North
- Turn right onto California St. and travel 3 blocks to Main St.
- Parking is abundant