Hidden Hollywood: Hightower and Whitley Heights

Nobody walks in LA, according to those famously catchy lyrics, but the neighborhoods of Hollywood Heights make it worthwhile to strap on those walking shoes and defy the stereotype.



Hollywood is probably not the first neighborhood that springs to mind when you think of places for a relaxing walk. But in the hills, just a few blocks away from the tourist madness at Hollywood/Highland, lie the quiet retreats of Hightower and Whitley Heights.



These residential neighborhoods boast winding streets, concealed staircases, historic homes, and charming bungalows. Bonus: All the uphill makes for a great butt workout.



The Hollywood Heritage Museum (2100 North Highland Ave). is the best place to start. The parking lot here is free, and the tiny museum is worth a stop in and of itself. Housed in the restored Lasky-DeMille Barn (c.1895), the museum features historic photos, props, and other mementos from Hollywood’s movie heyday.

At the corner of Camrose and Highland, there's a walled park that's open to the public with a shady picnic area, perfect for a lunch stop

Hightower

Once you cross Highland Ave. and head up Camrose Drive, you’re officially in the Hightower neighborhood. Beyond its secluded feel and its charming homes, this neighborhood has a special secret.



You may notice the collection of stand-alone garages bunched together, without houses attached, at the bottom of hills. That’s because many people in this neighborhood can only reach their homes via footpath (pedestrian-only) or elevator. That’s right, elevator!



Only residents have keys to use the private High Tower elevator, but it’s definitely worth a look. To reach it, head up Camrose and turn right on High Tower Road, where you will see the street’s namesake looming above.



To get a closer view of the tower, turn left from High Tower Road onto the Los Altos Place pedestrian footpath – a pleasantly shaded walkway. Then turn right on Broadview Terrace, another pedestrian path, and head up the stairs. At the top, you will be treated to an up-close look at the top of the elevator, as well as fabulous views of the downtown skyline.


Whitley Heights

With more of a prosperous, old Hollywood feel than Hightower, Whitley Heights boasts stunning Mediterranean-style homes, many dating from the 1920s, when stars like Judy Garland and Charlie Chaplin called this home. To me, Whitley Heights feels more neighborly and less secluded than Hightower.



To reach this neighborhood, it’s best to go back to the starting point at the Hollywood Heritage Museum. From here, head up Milner Road and wind your way up the hill. Alternatively, ascend the hill via the Whitley Terrace Steps next to 6776 Milner.



Please note that my inspiration for this walk came thanks to Walking LA
– a fabulous book of LaLaLand walking tours by Erin Mahoney – that I recommend to anyone looking for off(and some on)-the-beaten-path adventures. (Note: She gives much more detailed walking directions than I do with maps and the works)

Grauman’s Chinese Theater: Tour a Relic from Hollywood’s Heyday

Off-the-beaten-path it is not. Among the 10 most visited tourist traps in SoCal, Grauman’s Chinese Theater is, nevertheless, a trap I didn’t mind being ensnared in.



That’s not to say that I enjoyed being accosted by the seemingly drug-addled freaks, adorned in Star Wars and Superman garb, who gathered out front to badger passersby into paying for their pictures. Nor did I appreciate the camcorder-touting supertourists, who stepped on my toes, as they jostled for that perfect shot.

But despite the freaks and crowds, the theater deserves a visit for its history alone. The backstage tour, which runs about $11 pp, is a great way to see more than the tourist-infested outside.



Completed in 1927 by Sid Grauman, one of the original 36 founders of the Academy of Motion Pictures, the Chinese Theater boasts the largest screen in the country – over 90 feet wide. The scene of countless movie premieres, Grauman’s opulently cheesy Chinese décor looks almost the same today as when it opened 80 years ago. Two original giant Heaven dogs imported from China still guard the theater’s imposing bronze entry doors.



Our tour guide Chris explained how it’s still tradition for actors and directors to touch the kitschy Chinese wax figure inside the entrance for good luck. Ok, I’ll admit it. I was superstitious enough to touch the darn thing myself when Chris wasn’t looking. I’ll let you know when my screenplay gets optioned:)



Besides the wax figure, there are oriental carpets, large vases and urns, red spider lights imported from Shanghai, and a beautifully-painted brick wall depicting a forest. The theater’s décor reminds me of Tinseltown’s ability to transport people out of the humdrum of daily life into an alternate fantasy world.



Famed for the hand- and footprints immortalized in its cement forecourt, Chris had some amusing anecdotes about the stars’ various cement ceremonies. Apparently, silent film star Norma Talmadge accidentally started the tradition when she stepped into a wet cement slab.

Jimmy Stewart defied superstition and stepped into his cement square while standing under a ladder with a black cat next to him. Meanwhile, Samuel L. Jackson wanted a purple-hued square, but the cement mixers failed to concoct it so he had to settle for plain gray.



Interested in checking out the VIP lounge, either take the tour or splurge for special access to the balcony and lounge area that boasts a full bar and checker tables. Did I mention the historic photos of Marilyn Monroe and Ronny Reagan on display? Tres cool!

Looking for something to do after the tour? There’s an over-the-top mall next door. While the stores are nothing special, it does feature elephant decorations and an oxygen bar.

6925 Hollywood Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90028
Cross Street: Highland

Star-Struck at Hollywood Forever Cemetery Movie Night

Besides seeing stars (both in person and on screen) at Saturday’s showing of Fast Times at Ridgemont High, I was also in the midst of stars (dead ones) at the Hollywood Forever Cemetery.

On Saturdays throughout the summer, the Hollywood Forever Cemetery hosts movie nights, from old horrors to 80s classics. Don't worry, this isn’t some goth clique that gets off on hanging amongst the dearly departed. Thousands turn out for this only-in-LA event. You can be among them…check out the website to see this summer’s calendar.



Reminiscent of a giant slumber party, people splay out across the lawn on blankets and pillows. The main lawn is tombstone-free, but with a turn of my head, I spotted Hitchcock’s grave in the area behind us.

The regulars, who know how to do it right, bring low chairs and tables and even candles. Most come with a picnic dinner and some sort of imbibement, generally wine or beer. And the freshly-cut stuff below you won’t be the only grass you smell.



For a mere $10, you will be treated to the movie and some pretty decent DJ mixes before and after the screening. Adding to the awesomeness is the entry stroll that winds among tombstones – some decorated with headshots (this is Tinseltown after all!). Dispel any desecration guilt pangs from your head – the movie proceeds go towards the upkeep of this Tinseltown resting place.

The key thing to remember is to get there early. Gates don’t open until 7:30p, but people start lining up around 6p or so, especially if they want a decent viewing spot on the lawn. Traffic can get gnarly so show up early to claim a parking spot.

If you’re into star sightings, this seems to be a top spot for it. I’m generally pretty oblivious, but Hillary Duff, her sis, and the weasly Talan Torriero of Laguna Beach fame were all in line together right behind us. As if this weren’t enough, Drew Barrymore - who claims this is one of her regular haunts (pun intended) - introduced the movie.

I can’t wait to come back!

Hollywood Forever Cemetery
6000 Santa Monica Blvd at Gower